|

Assembling a history of women in a man's profession promised
damnation from the start.
By Barbara Flanagan
April 2001
Women Designers in the USA, 1900-2000:
Diversity and Difference
Edited by Pat Kirkham
Yale University Press, 462 pp., $80.00
No guy is going to read a chick book review with
a title like this. So while the men are off reading other pages, we can
talk. What we're supposed to be talking about is Women Designers
in the USA, edited by Pat Kirkham, a professor at the Bard Graduate
Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, and published for Bard by Yale
University Press to accompany the New York school's recent exhibition
on women designers in the United States.
But first let's digress: when you women designers
started your careers, you had a lot of girlish notions, right? First you
thought you'd find a sage mentor who would respect your creative
mind, or at least not try to date it, and show you the ropes. (You dated.)
Next you believed that if you worked diligently--selflessly--your
devotion would be rewarded and your talent discovered, by virtue of its
pure and sparkling merit. (You remained obscure.) Then you decided that
nurturing spouse, kids, and home would deepen your work. (You got more
obscure.) When your work and womanhood finally became deep and confident,
your children tall, you expected to reach that serene plateau called "fulfillment."
And--whammo!--that's when your husband divorced you, your
parents died, and/or your kids ran away from home, due to your workaholic
neglect. The point? There are always biological issues, regardless
of your work history. The difference for women is that they're damned
if they do, damned if they don't. Having a family hampers career;
not having a family hampers life. And the advent of "having it all,"
so nice while it lasted, turned out to be an evil hoax, or at least an
illusion. What is real, however, is choice. With more choices and fewer
stigmas, women are free to design their own lives more creatively than
ever before. What about designing a book premise? Assembling a
history of women in a man's profession--a whole century of them
in a large nation--promised damnation from the start. There were tough
choices to be made, with two possible approaches--one hot, the other
cold. The hot approach would have put the topic right on the table and
said: "Talented women have always been a whole helluva lot different
than talented men, but here's how they managed to sleep (husband-and-wife
collaborations, for example), schmooze, luck, buy, and labor their way
onto a man's turf--the marketplace. This is how they designed
their livelihoods--and their lives--in the days when they had
no templates for success."
That editorial approach would have bared the love,
lust, jealousy, fear, sex, and all the other issues involved when teachers,
bosses, spouses, offspring, and clients fuel or crush the talents of women
trying to reach that lofty, uppity goal: creative fulfillment (plus a
living wage--and a life). What a drama. Alas, this book takes the
opposite approach. Reading it feels like touring a pantheon, all marble
and cold, lined with the busts of obscure heroes who did honorable things
that no longer matter. With 462 pages of coated stock, the tome is too
heavy to hold and too importantly comprehensive--in that relentless
march-of-history style--to actually enjoy. Except for snippets of
feminist wording, there is something very mannish about the result: encyclopedic,
diligent, hyperprofessional, aimed for posterity--but also austere
and impersonal.
The very first, steely sentence of the prologue, written
by Eileen Boris, a professor of Studies in Women and Gender at the University
of Virginia, reads: "American women entered the twentieth century
as unpaid family laborers constrained in their sexual expression and subject
to legal and political disabilities." (What a downer--and with
426 pages to go.) Boris continues: "American women left the century
with a vastly expanded public presence, but most still retained responsibility
for home and children." Funny the way those pesky children keep hanging
around their moms in this new, improved century. Can't those kids
see their mothers are busy expanding their public presence?
If that is what this book is for--public-presence
expansion--then it's a great success by virtue of heft alone.
Even without luring readers inside, the tome works as a commemorative
monument--standing tall in bookstores or lying supine in living rooms
and offices--by announcing, with its title alone, that plenty of American
women designers have existed over time (thank you very much). Enough of
them to fill up a book--and hardcover, too! Or it can work as a talisman,
a parental gift to a Parsons student upon her graduation.
But beyond its ceremonial value, it's
hard to figure out how to interact with the book. Sometimes it feels like
a receiving line filled with fleeting names one will never encounter again;
other times it feels like a cocktail party where guests flit from one short
bio to another (name, company, alma mater). Occasionally the text falls
into college seminar jargon. Mostly the tone remains dutiful, with occasional
lapses into the peppier prose of press releases. Not until the last chapter--where
Ellen Lupton, the book's designer (along with Patrick Seymour), writes
so engagingly about graphic designers--does the book warm up enough
to explain how design mixes with culture, politics, and the longings of
women.
From the start Women Designers in the USA begs
the question: What exactly do we mean by "designers"? Thinkers
or makers? Innovators or traditionalists? Artists or crafters? Professionals
or amateurs? Whitebread or ethnic? The book's answer is everybody.
You know...diversity. Another question left vague is context. Who were
these designers working for? Big business, small business, home, church?
And what was their motivation? Money, power, love, boredom? Once again
the book's answer is all of the above. Why is all this friendly inclusiveness
irritating? Including so many categories means there's no room to
tell the reader what the different standards or the stakes were, or how
women designers complied or resisted. If we are talking about the rigors
of a real marketplace--with money and clients--then eliminate
those Amish quilt-makers, or explain, please, how a very private domestic
craft became a hot commodity and how commerce changed the rules.
The resulting book is an uneven collection of objects,
described in small color plates, with something to annoy everyone. To
err on the side of the academic, the book devotes a lot of space to double-whammy
minorities, Native and African-American women. OK, fine. But if persecution
is the criterion, let's hear less PC puff and more about the real
cultural clashes and hardships of working outside two mainstreams. Otherwise,
isn't it a tad patronizing?
The book includes chapters on fashion, jewelry, metalwork,
Hollywood costumes and productions, industrial design, furniture making,
ceramics, graphic design, interiors, and landscape. Architecture has no
chapter of its own. Although women architects appear briefly in their capacity
as interior designers, plenty are slighted. The monastic Julia Morgan,
Hearst's Michelangelo, gets one sentence. Laurinda Spear, a gifted,
50-ish architect--product designer with a spousal partner, six kids,
several global offices, and no grudges, gets name only. Liz Plater-Zyberk,
the brilliant architect--town planner and antisprawl activist, gets
nothing at all.
Quibbling aside, it's certainly better to have
a big book called Women Designers out there than no book at all.
But here's my beef: For a hundred years women designers have been
trying very hard to think, act, and design like men. Isn't it time
for women to redesign design? To advance past man's obsession with
shaping objects and invent new ways of shaping life. Not gears, utensils,
widgets, and tools, but patterns, rituals, perspectives, celebrations,
and, yes, relationships. Women have some awesome traits, fueled by chemistry
that science has just begun to discover. Designed for child-raising, women
do very well with chaos, distraction, and simultaneity. And they show
remarkable stamina and patience under duress. Women tend to ask questions
that need complex answers. So instead of wondering how to do a kickier
skyscraper, a woman might wonder how to conceive a better workplace. Instead
of perfecting the undetectability of Stealth bombers, women might be more
interested in inventing modes of diplomacy that avert warfare rather than
wage it with style. Instead of having their work photographed without
a living soul in sight, women might invite real people into the frame--because
that's who the work is usually for. Certainly work and war need all
sorts of tools, and women are perfectly qualified to conceive, draw, and
produce them--but they're also supremely qualified to fulfill
job descriptions that remain unwritten.
Notice how things have been moving faster lately,
and how that speed demands that everyone move with more creative agility,
more conceptual zip? The twenty-first century may look like chaos to a
lot of guys out there, but it sure looks like a design opportunity from
my seat. After all, women have been copying the steps, while dancing backwards
in high heels, for a long time. Now it's time to choreograph the
steps.
Barbara Flanagan is a writer/designer based in Bethlehem,
Pennsylvania.
|