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As huge Western-style developments near completion, two conflicting visions of the city are emerging.




Courtesy Tokyo Institute of Technology, Tsukamoto Architectural Laboratory, and Atelier Bow-Wow.
View a selection of web exclusive images from the book Pet Architecture Guide Book by Tokyo Institute of Technology, Tsukamoto Architectural Laboratory, and Atelier Bow-Wow.
Driving on a Tokyo expressway with Yoshiharu Tsukamoto, a leading architect of the 30-something generation, I begin to think I'm in a dystopian vision of the future. He's wearing a leopard-skin face mask to protect himself from pollution, pollen, and communicable diseases. Clusters of mismatched buildings line the streets outside our windows, and color-coded traffic warnings flash overhead. "We have a very strong cultural tradition of acceptance," Tsukamoto says. "People don't really care what a building looks like." From neighborhood to neighborhood, there's no discernable pattern of scale, materials, or form. Neon collides with concrete; building slivers are squeezed into improbable sites. Few structures appear to be more than a decade old.

Tokyo architecture firm Atelier Bow-Wow celebrates existing low-rise buildings in a city that's rapidly undergoing high-rise construction. For example, this three-story building (opposite page)--which contains a noodle shop and a residence--is only six-and-a-half feet deep.
Courtesy Mori Building Co.
Several times during the tour we run into traffic congestion caused by construction. Even in Japan's dismal economy, Tokyo keeps demolishing and rebuilding itself. The capital of the world's second largest economy is clearly an international city, but its built form remains utterly unique and defiantly Japanese. Tsukamoto, 38, and his partner Momoyo Kaijima, 35, have written (with Junzo Kuroda) an influential book on the subject, Made in Tokyo, extolling the virtues of what they call "the real city." In the introduction they explain the origins of their fascination: "The buildings we were attracted to were ones giving a priority to stubborn honesty in response to their surroundings and programmatic requirements, without insisting on architectural aesthetic and form. We decided to call them Da-me Architecture ("No-good Architecture"), with all of our love and disdain. Most of them are anonymous buildings, not beautiful and not accepted in the architectural culture."

ROPPONGI HILLS
The $5 billion project includes a 58-story tower, a 390-room Grand Hyatt, a television broadcast center, residential buildings, a theater for the performing arts, and the Mori Arts Center, the first institution affiliated with the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Courtesy Mori Building Co.
Partners in the firm Atelier Bow-Wow, established in 1992, they produced the book as an antidote to the many Japanese publications dedicated to the extravagant buildings of the prosperous "bubble" period. Before it burst in 1990 with the Asian economic crisis--plunging the country into a long recession from which it is still suffering--the era produced a number of large projects that they feel do not accurately represent the city. "I wonder why architects," Tsukamoto asks, "are interested in buildings that do not tell the real story of Tokyo?"

MORI ARTS CENTRE
The ground-floor entrance to the Mori Arts Center; the museum is located on the 53rd floor of the tallest tower at Roppongi Hills. "For symbolic and pragmatic reasons, there needed to be a separate museum entrance that bypassed the commercial entry," says Richard Gluckman, whose firm designed the sleek cylindrical structure. "A place that provided a drop-off for buses, taxis, and cars, as well as an element that collected all the pedestrian movement through the site."

Courtesy Gluckman Mayner Architects
Among the hybrid building types in Made in Tokyo--their version of the city's architectural record--are a department store with a rooftop roller coaster, another one with an expressway on the roof, a taxi company annexed to a driving range, a tunnel topped with a shrine, and a horse stable at the base of an apartment building. Each building function is unremarkable, but their inexplicable combinations are pure Tokyo.

"One of the most interesting things about the city is it's constantly rebuilding itself," says Ken Oshima, a lecturer at Columbia University on Japanese Modernism and architectural history. "Even in its bleak economy the construction continues." Most of Tokyo is low rise. For decades it resisted high-rise development, but a new vision of the city is rapidly taking shape. In the Shiodome region overlooking Tokyo Bay, a skyscraper district featuring towers by Jean Nouvel, Richard Rogers, and Kevin Roche has taken form. Across town Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates has transformed the Roppongi neighborhood with a 58-story tower. The KPF building is the centerpiece of one of Japan's most prominent developers, Minoru Mori.

Mori's $5 billion mixed-use Roppongi Hills project represents a bold departure from the status quo. Rejecting the sprawling low-rise density typical of the city, the plan proceeds on the assumption that Tokyoites are ready to abandon their "rabbit warrens" for more spacious centrally located developments surrounded by modest public green spaces (a rarity in Tokyo). Mori has hired a number of internationally acclaimed designers to assist in the creation of dozens of new buildings and landscapes. They include Pritzker prize-winning architect Fumihiko Maki, Terence Conran, Richard Gluckman, Jon Jerde, and Bruce Mau, who's designed and coauthored a book on this new approach to urban living called New Tokyo Life Style Think Zone.

CARRETTA SHIODOME COMPLEX
Part of a flurry of new development in the Shiodome area, Dentu advertising company's new corporate headquarters (pictured above on the right) was designed by Jean Nouvel. The complex includes 56 shops and restaurants, a theater, and a 48-story office tower. Also in the area is Richard Rogers's headquarters (below, center) for NTV.

Kurt Handlbauer
Most of these large projects were hatched before the Japanese economy began its long meltdown; a few are now nearly finished. "And what's happening is that they're talking about it as the '2003 Problem'," Oshima says. "A lot of companies are moving into these new spaces, and the old offices are emptying out." The Roppongi Hills project, in particular, has a towers-in-the-park configuration reminiscent of midcentury planning schemes that have since fallen out of favor in the United States.

"These large projects are quite controversial," Oshima says. "Many people are up in arms with the high-rise buildings because they completely change the character of the neighborhoods. They're going to change Tokyo from a horizontal city to a vertical one--but whether the land and infrastructure can sustain that much density is another question. And whether they're truly going to make it a better city is also going to be highly debated."

To understand how dramatically this type of development breaks with Japanese tradition requires a look at the city's history. It was built on the former feudal capital Edo, which remained isolated from the west until the nineteenth century. A trade agreement with the U.S. in 1854 precipitated political upheaval and a competitive push to westernize. Fourteen years later the newly installed Meiji regime moved the imperial throne from Kyoto to Edo, and the city was renamed Tokyo. Accompanying this shift, a series of sweeping reforms abolished feudalism and paved the way for the city's rapid industrialization. But while new policies transformed nearly every sector of society in the span of a few decades, the agrarian culture of the preceding centuries made for a city of reluctant urbanists.


 

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