What the eaters of this world have put in their mouths has
always been strongly influenced by the design ethos of the
moment. The ladies who lunched in the 1930s made molded
salads that seemed kissed by Art Deco's flamboyant star,
Erté. Later the solid rectangular casseroles and
frozen dinners of the 1950s mirrored Gordon Bunshaft's boxy
masterpieces.
But in the past few years the trend has been reversed. After
the skyscraper-tall entrées and castlelike desserts
of the 1980s and '90s, edibles are now enjoying their salad
days of influencing the look of designed objects. As
Jonathan Ive, who headed the iMac design team, explains on
apple.com, "We had to make sure that the color and
level of translucency were exactly the same in the first
computer and every one thereafter. This led us to finding a
partner who does a lot of work in the candy industry."
Candy. Of course--everyone loves candy. So much so that the
iMac's fruity-tooty design made other industrial designers
salivate. Can you taste the blueberry in the Swingline
stapler? Have you licked the cherry-wheeled Razor scooter?
And now the trend seems to be doubling back once again. The
"food" that has influenced the biggest design
force of the last few years isn't exactly au naturel, and so
real food--like that brunette who wants to have more
fun--has had to undergo a makeover. Supermarket products
that would have seemed immune to an identity crisis look
like Willy Wonka ran them through the gob-stopper machine.
Witness Heinz, whose EZ Squirt green ketchup rolled out last
October with much fanfare. Kelly Stitt, brand manager for
new products at the company, says extensive focus groups
with kids--the number one consumers of ketchup--are the
inspiration. Since kids are also the number one consumers of
candy, perhaps Heinz's method is not so different from
Apple's; the product's success is certainly comparable.
"What Heinz had originally anticipated to sell in one
year, the company ended up selling in the first three
months," Stitt says.
Another makeover success story comes from Mott's, the apple
people. The company's blue applesauce was inspired by a
tie-in with kiddie show Blue's Clues. Company
spokesperson Chris Curran says that its success has led
Mott's to go over the rainbow: you can now get your
applesauce in hues of green, purple, orange, and red.
Ironically, whereas adults see their iMacs as tangerine or
lime, it's the unfoodlike quality of these same colors that
seems to appeal to kids. "It's their way of saying
'Ha-ha, Mom--I get to eat this stuff!'" Curran
says.