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Stepping Out
Combining teaching and practice, history and material innovation, Toshiko Mori emerges as an architect and educator.



The student projects arranged on the floor, walls, and benches and hung from the upper-deck railing in Gund Hall at Harvard's Graduate School of Design (GSD) are hardly architecture. There is some lingerie--ribbons of blue fabric like a shredded teddy sliding off a hanger; jointed wood dolls outfitted in stretchy Trekkie caftans; origami paper reinforced and folded into pods, tubes, and parabolas. A chicken-wire mannequin wrapped in cloth dangles from above. One group seems to have cheated, entering with a cardboard-and-foam-core box that splits apart like a 3-D puzzle. But this--despite its suspicious resemblance to a Rem Koolhaas building--later turns out to be merely a mold for a fiberglass-reinforced bentwood chair.

The common element here is craft, or a lack thereof. Each of the students--for this is a midterm review--has sewn, woven, knitted, glued, Velcroed, or digitized materials homely and high-tech in their search for new structural paradigms. If the stitches are clumsy, the curves sloppy, so be it. It is all for the best, according to the workshop's leader, architecture department chair Toshiko Mori. "Architects often think only about what you call hard things," she says, "hard and heavy and strong things. So it is interesting to have them think about something soft and light and weak." Mori has divided the students in her class, "Weaving, Materials, and Habitation," into seven groups to deal with the overflow enrollment of 25 students. Two have devoted themselves to a theory of weaving, while the rest concentrate on hands-on topics--illustrated by the alternately crude and elegant objects described above. "Habitation" produced the origami, "Digital Weaving" the mold, "House as a Sweater" the dolls, and "Body," naturally, the slinky lingerie and the prickly wire figure.

The "Habitation" group goes first, presenting their models, arranged in rows like a flower bed, to a group of critics that includes Issey Miyake textile engineer Dai Fujiwara, John Maeda and Maggie Orth of the MIT Media Lab, MoMA design curator Paola Antonelli, and theorist Sanford Kwinter. (Pierre de Meuron drops by later on for a look.) The concept that attracts the most attention is that of "the floppy wall," a piece of fabric with stiff tiles first glued then Velcroed to it that, when flipped tile-side down, holds a gentle curve. "Through the subtraction," says Vivian Lee, ripping tiles from the fabric, "flop is created." Antonelli says, "I see the possibility for real beauty in structure here." Kwinter calls it "a tunable wall." Mori adds, "This shows how we can use quote, unquote weakness as an advantage."

What Mori calls weakness may be the future of architecture. Last semester, for example, GSD students made full-scale models of several works by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban out of his favorite weak material, cardboard tubes. Several of the students in Ban's workshop signed up for Mori's seminar because his work illustrates her point precisely: Ban has figured out how to make a cheap, lightweight, and almost universally available product into both refugee housing and buildings of great beauty. Mori's own work has begun to incorporate the fiberglass and carbon fibers of boat-building, leaving the heavy beams of traditional architecture behind. "It is a trend to think of structure as dynamic structure as opposed to static," she explains. "In dynamic structure, when you apply force it travels through the material, it doesn't just sit in one place. That means you don't need as much material. That is the direction we are going in the future. If students don't start thinking about [new structural systems], ten years from now certain knowledge might become obsolete."

For Mori the challenge for architects today is keeping up with the consultants--materials engineers, structural engineers, boatbuilders, even fabric innovators like Fujiwara, whose 3-D weaving techniques can, and will, be adapted to architecture. At the GSD, where she has been chair since July 2002, she has brought in many of her collaborators to give students at one of the country's most professionally oriented programs a chance to experiment.

"I just keep saying, I want to slow it down a little bit. You can be narrow and go through the process like this," Mori says, placing her palms together like a diver and darting them across the table. "I can't make it longer"--Harvard's program is already an atypical three-and-a-half years--"but I can make it thicker," she says, moving her hands apart. "I can actually make it denser, by creating more different opportunities for students to experience architecture."

The fact that Mori strays back to the textile world for metaphor is no accident. The thrust of her research for the last ten years has been the combination of material and making, fabric and fabrication, seen in publications like Immaterial/Ultramaterial (2002), derived from discussions at the GSD; in exhibition designs for Structure and Surface: Contemporary Japanese Textiles at MoMA and an upcoming show on Josef and Anni Albers at the Cooper-Hewitt; even in the use of the polymer film, which turned her Soho Pleats Please store for Miyake into a now translucent, now transparent aqueous box. Workshops like Mori's current one, or the studio she has cotaught with German engineer Matthias Schuler (of Transsolar) that combined her input on design with his on sustainable technology, are the beginnings of her influence on the school.

"In her introduction to the studio, she said: 'We are teaching as an architect and an engineer, a Japanese and a German, a man and a woman,'" Schuler says. "If you don't connect engineering to design for students, they learn it but they forget it tomorrow. If they integrate it into design, it gets much deeper into their minds and creative processes."

Mori's didactic strategies come from her own education at Cooper Union. "My ideas come from John Hejduk," Mori says, citing the late legendary head of the school's architecture department. "He actually invented what you would call parallel curriculum. He had writers, poets, even doctors and judges coming to teach courses. That's the base I am coming from, the education of an architect as humanist rather than as technocrat."

When Mori was appointed, she became, along with Nasrine Seraji of Cornell one of two female academic leaders for the profession in the Ivy League. Her turn as a role model, however, seems to have taken her by surprise. When Mori went to Cooper Union (she earned her B.Arch. in 1976 and an honorary M.Arch. from Harvard in 1996), she was one of a handful of female students.

"We were all called by our last names. We weren't conscious about gender issues at all because there were so few of us. It didn't matter who you were, you just had to do the work," Mori says. "All my mentors were men."

In the last five years women have pulled even with, and sometimes surpassed, the number of entering male students at leading graduate architecture programs. Men are still the majority at B.Arch. and advanced-placement programs, however. "Women tend to start architecture at the graduate level, so obviously there is a slow awareness of this particular profession and of women thinking it is an appropriate thing to do," Mori says. "All of a sudden it became clear that it is a flexible discipline. I have a small firm so it is flexible in terms of hours--I can work long hours one day, but then if I have to take the kids to school in the morning, that's OK. You have to put in the time, but you can control it."

Asked about the prospects for women in architecture, Mori describes her own path as the multitrack ideal: corporate work, solo practice, academia. She has a 20-year-old daughter, now in college, with husband James Carpenter, a well-known architectural glass designer. Mori worked for Edward Larrabee Barnes after graduating from Cooper Union, then opened her own practice in 1981. She began teaching, at her alma mater, in 1980.

Mori's positive attitude may be derived from her slow but steady progress upward but also from her sense that any success is gratuitous. "I have a double stigma: I am a woman and a minority. Either way, I can't win!" she says, smiling. Mori gets asked far more often about her Japanese heritage than about her gender. She says people view her design sensibility, in a term coined by Fredric Jameson to discuss that of Tadao Ando, as "Japanese exceptionalism." "It is late Modern, but at the same time it has more of a cultural language imbued into it that is slightly different than traditional American Modernism. People point out that I deal a lot with horizontal elements and issues of floor, and it's true."


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Pleats Please
128 Wooster Street, New York

Currently working on new concepts for Issey Miyake, Mori's application of lumisty--a polymer film that alters transparency--to the windows and interior surfaces of the Soho store incited pedestrians' curiosity.

Chris Buck
Mori's addition to Paul Rudolph's 1957 Burkhardt Residence.
Paul Warchol
Martin House
Buffalo, NY

An addition to the Frank Lloyd Wright house of 1903, the Visitors' Center (above) rests in an idyllic neighborhood planned by Olmsted. Inverting the shape of Wright's roof (below), Mori uses an innovative material--carbon-fiber-reinforced fiberglass--to construct the form.
Keystone Film Productions Inc.
Cohen Residence
Casey Key, FL

Another addition to a Modernist landmark, Mori designed the longitudinal guest house adjoining Paul Rudolph's 1957 Burkhardt Residence (above and below) in 1999.
A second addition to the site is currently underway.
Top, Paul Warchol; middle, Toshiko Mori
Offsite:
Harvard Graduate School of Design, www.gsd.harvard. edu; to purchase Toshiko Mori's book Immaterial/Ultramaterial log on to www.metropolismag. com and click on "Bookstore"; The Cooper Union, www.cooper. edu; Fujiwara Design Office, www.keisuke fujiwara.com; on Mori and Frank Lloyd Wright's Darwin Martin House in Buffalo, www.savewright.org/ chat/ wwwboardS/ messages/590.html; more on Mori, www.gsd.harvard.edu/ people/ faculty/ mori/index.html
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