Paris's industrial 13th arrondissement is in the midst of a dramatic transformation.
Buildings like Les Frigos--a former refrigerated warehouse that currently
houses artists' and designers' studios (above)--are making way for large-scale
developments like 1998's Bibliothèque Nationale (below).
It's been roughly 150 years since the poet Baudelaire wandered the streets
of Paris capturing the pangs of urban transformation and sighing, "The
old Paris is gone! The form of a city changes more quickly, alas, than the
heart of a mortal." Around him, Baron Haussmann razed Paris's medieval
quarters to create the modern urban form of wide boulevards. Some people
argue that the stony capital of the nineteenth century hasn't changed much
since.
But during the next 15 years the city's 13th arrondissement will be the
site of the greatest structural transformation to visit Paris since the
days of Haussmann and Napoleon III. And in the Gallic tradition of public
debate, an urban curator is creating a forum of architects, construction
workers, artists, and residents to form the Centre d'Art en Mouvement, a
series of revolving public installations designed to comment on urban change.
Soon the 13th arrondissement will be unrecognizable to its former users.
The industrial mills, which once ground flour for all of France, will
house the new Université Paris VII. A factory will become Christian
de Portzamparc's Ecole d'Architecture Valle de Seine. Next to the new Bibliothèque
Nationale, the government is building two more libraries that will hold
space for 4,000 readers. And at the project's center is a plan to renovate
the Gare d'Austerlitz train station, sink one and a half miles of tracks
below ground, and build a massive, office-lined Avenue de France on
its top. "The scale is unprecedented for France," says Gilles-Antoine
Langlois, an urbanist consultant to the Parisian government and the nascent
center.
In the midst of the rubble, the Centre d'Art en Mouvement won't emerge as
a museum, exactly. Instead it will be a rotating series of installations
and conferences throughout the city to provoke discussion about the process
of urban change. "I want public art that is in dialogue with the old
and new city, and the ways we use space," says curator Sigrid Pawelke.
"Every day people sweep streets, or are shuttled in from the suburbs
to work in enormous buildings. People are evicted. People are divided from
one another. We want public art that startles us into seeing the forms that
the city takes around us. This is not commemorating a place with a static
monument: it is more like curating an urban disruption."
In July Pawelke gathered architects, artists, city officials, residents,
and construction workers to tour the quarter's construction sites and think
about the forms artistic expression might take. As the interdisciplinary
band peered into the 30-foot holes dug for the libraries and climbed the
scaffoldings over the train tracks, construction worker Abdalghain Zebiri
commented that acts of construction are often beautiful: Would it be possible
to film parts of them to display in the nearby Parc Bercy?
Paul Branca may do something like that. Amid billboards advertising the
virtues of the new Paris, the painter proposes dressing in construction
gear, punching a time card, and painting his own billboard image of the
workers on-site, every weekday from nine to five. "I will put
in overtime if necessary," he says. "But the piece will never
be finished, per se. It will change as fast as my paintbrush can change
it. It will be a labor whose final results can't be fully seen. And
hopefully it will be in sight of the construction workers and the public
view--and the two audiences will come together."
Other artists have proposed projecting films from the scaffolding of
the nearby Tour St. Jacques and building bubblelike tube tents to house
refugees, foreign workers, and the homeless. One muralist wants to paint
the sides of the garbage trucks that take debris away from the construction
site to highlight their role as roaming collectors of waste and change.
Baudelaire might approve, but will the city of Paris? Perhaps. "Public
art takes time," says Pawelke, who worked at New York's P.S. 1 in the
late 1990s. "At first the city doesn't see painted garbage trucks
as a form of art. But we convince them." Although the center has preliminary
plans to organize joint exhibitions with the Palais de Tokyo, Pawelke feels
no rush to give the nomadic organization a permanent home. "Architecture
is an object of desire and the stage across which we all pass," she
says. "In another sense, the city is already both."