Costume design and setting shape the choreography of performance artist Julia Mandle.


The Metropolis Observed
December 2001

Clothing acts as prop in Mandle's "costume-designed" performance pieces Return (2001; above) and Erika (2000; below).
On a breezy July night last summer 1,300 people gathered in a Brooklyn factory courtyard to watch the work-in-progress preview of Return, a performance conceived and directed by 31-year-old artist Julia Mandle. Four dancers appeared on a rooftop wearing bright red costumes, each carrying a stylized folding chair. The spare synchronized choreography had an angular quality emphasized by the costumes, which were equipped with silhouette-changing flaps, and by the use of the chairs, which snapped open and closed like giant red scissors.

The finished production debuts this month at the Gale Gates art space, in the Dumbo neighborhood of Brooklyn. Mandle--whose aesthetic is influenced by former employers architect Steven Holl and theater director Robert Wilson--describes her work as "costume-defined choreography," in which the dancers' movements are determined by the construction of the clothes they're wearing. In 1998's Kalch, performed outdoors in Lower Manhattan, the dancers wore constraining costumes and heavy chalk shoes. "I built the costume around the silhouette of a shovel, one arm connected to the middle of the other," she says. "Putting five- to ten-pound shoes on the performers also dictated the kind of movement we were able to do." Like much of Mandle's work, Kalch was site specific, functioning as urban-archaeology-through-movement: the dancers, using the chalk shoes, literally mapped an element of Manhattan's vanished landscape--Collect Pond, filled in sometime in 1821 as the city grew--onto the city's contemporary surface.

Offsite:
J. Mandle Performance's new project will be presented at Gale Gates, 37 Main Street, at Water Street, Brooklyn, December 5--22 at 8 p.m. Box office: (718) 522-4597 or www.galegates.org. Return will be adapted for two performances at BAX/Brooklyn Arts Exchange on January 4--5; for information call (718) 832-0018.
"Most of my projects have been outside, either completely or in part, working with audiences who were free to come and go," Mandle says. "With Return I'm working for the first time with theatrical strategy--looking at lighting design and having fixed audience seating areas." This new work is inspired by the experience one of Mandle's relatives had coming home from World War II. The audience will follow performers through the 8,000-square-foot space, which has been divided into distinct areas. "The way I worked with this open room was to create very different shapes that all relate to the concept of the scene," she says. "There will be this very long corridor, for example, relating to the long journey home."





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